Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Bye Bye 2008

This has been a remarkable year. When it started I had no idea that it would turn out to be like this. For most part it was good. Some of it was fabulous while at other times, it totally sucked - but that is the reality of life. It passed away remarkably fast. I spent the last day of the year with my labmates at SNU. We had cake - with chopsticks (when I saw it for the first time a few months back, I was rather shocked but now I have mastered the art). Then went to a restaurant for Samgaepsal (grilled pork). This was the first time I was carrying my camera with me to a restaurant and didn't miss a chance to click a few pics. But I was rather hungry and the smell of the meat made me abandon my artistic pursuits and concentrate on the more primitive ones! The table at a traditional Korean restaurant is always a very colorful and cheery sight with a large number of interesting side dishes complementing the main course (though everything is served at the same time). Instead of writing, I'd allow the pics to do the talking. Interestingly, my camera came out exile after almost 2 months and having it in my hands cheered me up. So here it goes ...






















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Shutting the world out

Last Sunday, I decided to stay indoors and spend the whole day just watching movies and eating! Its one of those days, when I like to pamper myself. It was cold and cloudy outside with occasional spells of light snow, so staying indoors was the natural choice. Also I happen to be in the middle of a Hindi movie watching spree and for the past few weeks I have watched movies I'd have never watched previously (some people choose to describe it as an assault on 'taste'!). A part of this was due to the fact that while most of my friends staying abroad had gone home for the winter break, I preferred to stay back in Korea. So suddenly everything Indian seemed very special. The nearest Indian restaurant is quite far away and on the expensive side, so free Hindi movies seemed to be the obvious choice. I woke up rather late and started watching movies right away. The first one was 'Singh is Kinng' and it made me laugh, in spite of being rather stupid and cheesy. But I guess watching serious movies all the time can be exhausting. Somehow I seemed to like Javed Jafri and his antics a lot, though he was not among the principal characters. This was followed by 'Jaane Tu ... ya Jaane na' for lunch. 'Dil Chahta Hai' with coffee in the evening and 'Bade Miyan Chhote Miyan' with dinner!
The result was that the next morning when I came out of my house, I was rather shocked to see so many Koreans all around me! Somehow, all the movies the previous day and not coming out of the house had transported me back to India and it took me some time to grasp the reality. When I did, I laughed out aloud - in the middle of the road, and people looked at me suspiciously.
This was not the first time that it has happened to me. On the occasion of the Diwali dhamaka at the Yonsei auditorium, there were a large number of Indian cultural events. Sitting in the auditorium that day, speaking in Hindi and laughing out at the jokes, I never felt that I was in Korea. It felt very much like India - the music, the people all around and the atmosphere in general.
Staying away from India has not been a problem for me so far. I have made new friends here, adjusted to the local food and fashion remarkably well :). In general, I have never quite felt seriously homesick. Yeah, there has been times when I yearned for Indian food and someone to speak to in Bengali or Hindi but they have been just casual desires. But once in a while, I really enjoy shutting out the world and creating one of my own, be it within the confines of a room or an auditorium. And I guess, this has been the key to my survival. People used to ask me and they still do - how difficult it would be for you to stay in a new country. For me, at least from the experience I've had so far - it has been rather enjoyable. This transformation started about a year and a half ago, when I went to Germany for summers 2007. I learnt to accept, adopt and enjoy other cultures without severing the link to my own. I view every new experience as one adding and enriching my own view rather than occluding it - a mutual coexistence of views rather than one conquering the other. People often use the word, culture shock. I haven't had a major culture shock so far. I think the closest I've come was to see that people have cakes with chopsticks!
Retreating into this self made cocoon and shutting the world out, helps me renew my links to India and Indian culture. Though strange as it may sound, staying out of India has made me more Indian than what I used to be!

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Mein Freund (Part 1)

Biswajeet Guha has many virtues, a few vices and a weird nickname! He is one of my best friends (hence the title which says 'My Friend' in German ... the reason for using German will be explained later), a member of the quartet who frequented a rather seedy bar in a small town in eastern India usually on Friday evenings, a great trek partner, a nehli (the university lingo for a person with a GPA > 9.0), a romantic, a 'cool' researcher attending grad school in an Ivy League university (whose field of research is so complicated that it exceeded Skype's BW when he attempted to tell me its name during a call and hence the clipping which made the name inaudible... I later came to know about it through another member of the quartet ... its called Nano-photonics :P) and a wonderful person.
I met him for the first time in the D block of the HJB Hall in IIT. Back then, Bishu used to wear rather unfashionable glasses (as opposed to his current Versace or whatever) and used to address every new acquaintance as 'Tumi' (a polite form for 'you' in Bengali) which totally pissed me off (I associated this term with geeks but in those days Bishu did look like a quintessential geek). After the devastating flood that almost engulfed the ground floor of D, Bishu shifted to MS Hall. I didn't know him very well in those days and most of our conversation were confined to acads and Fredrick Forsyth. Then came 2nd year and the shift to RP Hall, where Bishu was one of the familiar faces and I came to know more about him and his 'thing' for Panda (Subrat Panda - his roomie. I still wonder how Sourav Padhy, the other guy sharing the room with them managed to score such high GPA inspite of the distraction of the times when Bishu and Panda went Brokeback!) As we became good friends, Bishu decided to go with us on a trip to the Himalayas but an untimely flu robbed him of a chance to enjoy a great trip and some wonderful sights. But it was not until 3rd year that we became really good friends. That happened when we moved to the DTE (D Block, Top East wing of the hostel).
It is worth noting that during his first year, Bishu was a student reporter for the campus newspaper and stayed away from alcohol till we 'spoiled' him. It was a memorable evening. The 'we' consisted of Shamik, Samantak and yours truly and the location was Park - Bar cum Restaurant near the IIT campus. It took us a long time to convince him that its good to try out new things in life and thus dragged another 'innocent' soul into the dark world. Finally he agreed, "Only a small vodka and promise me that you won't force me after that". But he didn't realise that he was treading into dangerous territory from which there is no coming back. When the drink arrived, Shamik carefully added a cube of ice and a general dose of Sprite and forwarded the glass to him. Bishu carefully inspected the glass, twirled the ice cubes, took a sip and closed his eyes. We stared at him, awaiting his 'judgement' but Bishu won't open his eyes. And then it came ... a smile appeared on his face, very subtle at first and growing gradually like a new dawn. Bishu opened his eyes and looked at us but his gaze fixed a million miles away. "Its nice, not what I expected .... quite different from anything I have tasted earlier". There has been a few times when I have regretted me not having a camera at that moment but none of them compared to that evening in Park. The look on his face was almost spiritual, which was accentuated by the dim light of the bar. The smile was so unique that I have promised not to use the words "blissful" and "content" to describe anything else in this world! And I believe that the others who were lucky enough to witness this spectacle will also agree with me.
During the final year in Kgp, Bishu developed a keen interest in being what is popularly called "Metrosexual". A major part of this consisted of using a large number of male grooming products like specialised face washes, skin creams, perfumes etc. Perhaps he got his inspiration from a friend who takes great care at being 'sophisticated'. This particular friend who is renowned for his philanthropy, had an impressive collection of male grooming products in his room. Throughout the day, Bishu would make a number of trips to this room to generously sample these products. Thus as the cold arid air of the Himalayas and the fierce sun took its toll on my appearance, Bishu remained fresh as a daisy! At the same time Bishu learned the art of smelling good all the time, thanks to a perfume which had a horse logo on it. Perhaps it would interest the reader to know that the perfume has almost mythical abilities to mask bad odor (which was the result of frequent abstinence from trips to the shower and the maximal use of both sides of a certain clothing article with floral prints).
Towards the end of the final year when the workload for B.Tech thesis reached its apogee, Bishu resorted to a number of means to show off that he was not at all serious about his project (it is sad that working hard on a project is considered 'uncool' in Kgp and I have great respect for Bishu for being able to balance the tremendous expectations that his thesis advisor and the 'social norms' till the sensational revelation one night). Vaibhav (aka Loadu aka Baba) had some doubts regarding a certain circuit and hence went to Bishu for explanation, only to find the door closed and lights turned off. To heighten the effect of what happened next, lets look at the reconstruction of the scene that night from eyewitness accounts.
V: "Abe, Biswa, darwaza kholiyo ... doubt hai"
B(in a sleepy voice): "Sone de na"
V: "Please yaar, urgent hai ... chota sa hi doubt hai"
Silence from Bishu but Vaibhav is persistence and starts swearing in Kgp lingo (which has been deemed unfit for civilized society by the censor board).
Still no response from B. V is desperate now and decides to go medieval and starts ramming the door.
B(once again in a sleepy voice): "Kya kar raha hai, frust mat kar, soooone deee naaa yaaaar"
The pleas are useless and a few well aimed kicks later the bolts give away and the door swings open ... and behold ...
Bishu is wide awake, sitting in front of his computer multitasking between a few pdfs of IEEE Transactions, simulating a circuit for an ingenious drug delivery system and a draft of his thesis.
V: "Oh, B#%$* ...... " (damn the censor board!)
Later, recounting this incident V said that at that time the expression on Bishu's face was as if he was getting a BJ from someone and his wife walks in unannounced!
Anyway, the net effect was that for the rest of the time in Kgp, Bishu had to live with a broken door. The line "Sone de na yaar" went on to become a part of Kgp folklore. But the door was not the only interesting thing about Bishu's room. He had a drying line running across his room where he used to hang most of his clothing. But this was no ordinary drying line - it had a particular clothing article that had acquired toxic properties through repeated use of both of its surfaces. It may have been an ingenious trick to get rid of mosquitoes and other undesirable creatures from his room, for a single contact with it proved to be fatal for mosquitoes, bees, bugs and lizards (which were attracted to its floral design). There has been unconfirmed reports that a pigeon once dropped dead trying to peck the printed flowers (it must me noted that rats have a keen sense of smell and hence they stayed away from it). And then there was the bed. It had support only at the extremities and so if a sufficiently heavy load was applied at the center, the bed arched. Once during a cricket match, bed was overloaded and gave away. It was saved from collapse by a trunk that was place under the bed. Thus the bed acquired a V shape - a perfect addition to an interesting room with an equally interesting occupant.
Normally Bishu never gets angry or looses his calm - be it after the above incident or when he is at the receiving end of some caustic humor (which was the trademark way of showing affection in our wing, though it was on very rare occasions that Bishu was on the receiving end). I think it was only once that he really got angry and its ramifications were terrible. Winston Churchill once said that, "Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few". Had Churchill been alive today, he would have said, "Never before in the struggle against the malpractices of American financial institutions was so much owed by so many to one man". Yes, it was on the 3rd of December 2007 (Day 0 of placement season at IIT Kgp) that the American financial giant Lehman Brothers scripted the start of its own doom. Bishu made it through 4 rounds of gruelling interview session but was surprisingly rejected in the end. Perhaps the interview panel realised that it Bishu was too intelligent to just 'follow orders' and they feared that their way of conducting business would go against Bishu's 'values'. Less than a year later, on 15th September 2008, Lehman Brothers officially went bankrupt.
But Bishu is not just about bringing corrupt behemoths to its knees, he has another side to his persona as well. Its the romantic, poetic side - the person who gets misty eyed atop the Eiffel Tower looking at down at the City of Lights (though it was not Paris itself that made him emotional), the person who appreciates the lyrics of old bengali songs, the person who enjoys the silence of a remote Himalayan village on a full moon night, the person who plans to run a marathon to help poor people in Honduras even though he finds it difficult to run a few laps of a stadium (unfortunately a vice that he acquired because of us, prevented him from running the marathon and we take full responsibility for the hangover!)

Bishu is a phenomena and it is impossible to write everything about him in a single blog entry. To keep this entry to a reasonable length, I will stop here. Bishu and his antics are a fascinating subject of study and in a few years many univerisities will have what might be called "The Faculty of Bishu Studies". I would encourage the readers to contribute their own perception of Bishu thus enriching this subject. The result of my observations would continue in future entries. For the time being, as Bishu prepares to go home I wish him and his a$$ all the best (for the 15hr flight) and a great new year. I feel sad for not being able to come to India and be a part of the reunion.Ladies, gentlemen and children (beware of him and his fascination for the use of furniture and water bottles), here is the man himself!


And topless over here!

... to be continued
Credits

Shamik Ganguly
Billa Nishanth (for the cosmetics and the filling in the round off errors)
Vaibhav Singh (for breaking down his door and revealing the truth about "Sone de na")
Pawan Lunia (for generously helping us give Zzz's bed its distinctive shape)
Sudarshan Shashadri M ... (oops, can't recall his full name - for coining the name 'Pot')
Subrat Panda ( ... the comment has been removed in compliance with this website's regulation against obscene references)
The Eiffel Tower (for creating the right atmosphere for a confession)
Alcohol (for reducing Zzz's resistance to questioning and that wonderful smile)

P.S. - The author would like to thank the anonymous contributors from South Africa, Albania, Germany, Kolkata and Assam, who provided useful information under conditions of strict confidentiality.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Tumi ashbe bolei ...


I found this song one someone else’s orkut profile. It’s a song by Nachiketa Chakraborty about Durga Puja. It struck a deep chord with me – especially on Christmas eve, when Seoulites were getting ready to celebrate a festival that seems to have transcended religious boundary. It reminded me of that spirit in Bengal and especially Kolkata, on the eve of Durga Puja. There is nothing great or monumental about this song but I found the simplicity and the tune very refreshing. Here it goes



Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei akash meghla bristi ekhono hoyni

Tumi ashbe bolei krishnachurar phul gulo jhore jaye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei ondho kanai boshe ache gaan gaye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei ondho kanai boshe ache gaan gaye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei chourastar police ta ghush khaye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei Zakir Hussain bhul kore fele taale

Tumi ashbe bolei mukkho montri chumu khelo stri r gale

Tumi ashbe bolei shonali swapno bhir kore ashe chokhe

Tumi ashbe bolei agami bolchhe dekhte ashbo toke

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei amar didha ra uttor khuje paye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei deshta ekhono Gujrat hoye jaye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei shontrash bad gutye niyechhe thaba

Tumi ashbe bolei jyotish chherechhe koto na bhondo baba

Tumi ashbe bolei parar meyera much kore ache baar

Tumi ashbe bolei ishan kone te jomechhe ondhokar

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei bokhate chhele ta shish dite dite deye ni

Tumi ashbe bolei amar kolom ekhono bikri hoy ni

Tumi ashbe bolei …

Tumi ashbe bolei Tumi ashbe bolei …


I have heard it a few times since I found it this afternoon and each time I hear it, it makes me happy. It reminds me of my Bengali roots and how inspite of staying thousands of miles away from Bengal, inspite of all my 'vices' :), inspite of all my openess to new ideas and culture, deep within my heart, I'm still a Bong and always will be ...


Here is the original YouTube video:

Tumi ashbe bolei ...

Sunday, December 07, 2008

Confessions of an alcoholic

Living away from family and friends in a distant unknown land can be very difficult. It is even more difficult when most people in that city don't understand the language you speak. But somehow on my birthday, I never felt alone for a moment. Yes, I spoke to my family over the phone but that was not all. I have really been lucky to be a part of a lab whose members really care for me. From helping me get a phone connection to my bank account - they took care of everything. I think that the decision to come to Korea was not a bad decision after all. My labmates have almost made up for the lack of a family in this country as best as they could. I had just casually mentioned about my birthday sometime and yet they remembered it. When the time came, I had an excellent birthday party and a great lunch. But the real surprise was reserved for the night.
I came to Seoul as part of the Samsung GS Program and ever since the 7 GSP students of the 2008 batch had been close friends. But on the night of my birthday I was really surprised - pleasantly surprised. November and December are the birthday months for the GSP students and the usual norm was to take a cake and wine to the birthday boys room. That night I was watching a movie when I was suddenly interrupted by knocks on the door. I was surprised by the other guys (the Russians) at my doorstep standing with a cake and a bottle of Johnny Walker Black. Now this was breaking away from tradition! Instead of wine, it was scotch - though it was a rather nice gift for me, I was rather disturbed thinking about it later.
Ever since I have arrived in Korea, there has been a general opinion about me. Firstly, at a party where the alumni of my lab were present, I had to drink 3 shots after almost 3 beers. After that day, my thesis advisor, Prof Kim, seems to have developed a keen admiration for my drinking capacity. On my b'day night, Yukti (another GSP student at SKK) called me to wish. When she came to know that I was having party at my room, the first question she asked was - " I guess it involves a lot of drinking and smoking?" I was rather disturbed by her comment. Have I really become an alcoholic, so much so that even the Russians consider scotch more appropriate for my birthday rather than normal wine? Now I realise that it might actually be true. I'm writing this article after downing a whole 'khamba' - the traditional colloquial term for a large bottle of liquor. And I don't feel anything. 6 months ago, this quantity of alcohol would have been probably been fatal for me. I don't know what happened in between but I know that habit makes a man perfect. I seems to have acquired a perfection at a rather undesirable art! A few months back, a certain incident in my life triggered by the presence of some excellent breweries in the neighborhood made me try out a new form of beer almost everyday. It was also the time when something that I call the "Single Malt effect" happened. The confusion in my life, the puzzle of Visual continuity illusion and a certain 'crossroad' brought about very hard times and unfortunately at that time I also happened to the discover the Single Malt Effect through a bottle of Glenfiddich! This Scottish elixir conspired with some excellent brews from the Schwabian brew -to bring about a time when I had to actually really on the bottle to fire my imagination! The result was amazing (at least professionally) but the hangover from those days seems to have stayed on. As a result, I'm still sitting on a Saturday night (actually Sunday morning) in front of my laptop, waiting for the 'HIGH' to set in, while sadly looking at an empty bottle of scotch that I had bought a few hours ago.

Saturday, December 06, 2008

The Exponential phase

"... with change coming slowly, if it comes at all. For things are meant to endure in the Shire. There has always been at a Baggins at Bag End ..... and there always will be ...."

The start of Fellowship of the Ring is probably one of the best movie segment I've ever seen. Bilbo's description of the Shire, the beautiful background music, the serene landscape and the simple life of the Hobbits - paints the picture of an idyllic life, untouched by the complications of modern society. It has a primitive, unsophisticated and almost childish flavor that makes it very soothing to watch, especially when I'm very tired or depressed. Those first few minutes of the movie is almost like a sweet dream - a utopia far removed from the realities of life. The picture is that of a simple, stagnant, self contained community of people not concerned with the happenings of the outer world. But the mood of the movie changes quickly with the ring taking the center stage and shattering the serene atmosphere of the simple life in Shire. The pace is the rest of the movie and the other parts of trilogy is strikingly different from that in the beginning.
The last 3 years have brought about a tremendous change in my life - the only permanent thing in my life been - change. The pace has been ever increasing and I sometimes think with sheer amazement, how 3 years had passed without me noticing it. It had not been easy all the time - as a matter of fact, for most of the time it had been quite difficult but it was the challenge that made me going and for most part I enjoyed it. It really marked my 'coming of age' and brought with it something so intoxicating that it is probably the thing I yearn for the most - freedom!
3 years back, four of us (Sumit - Chick, Partha - Bando, Tushar and myself) rolled out of Howrah station one evening on the Kamrup Express, on a trip to North Bengal and Sikkim. At that time, we were just happy and excited about the trip ahead and by the fact that we were going to someplace on our own (i.e. without out parents). Looking back I realise the enormous significance of that trip. I don't know about others but for me it was nothing short of a paradigm shift. The trip itself was a wonderful one - I have never had more fun and surprises in my life. We had set out with very modest ambitions but what we achieved was nothing short of momentous for us!
The sleepless night on the train, the almost ethereal view outside as dawn approached, the biting cold next morning, the jeep ride to Darjeeling, the first sight of Kanchenjunga, the nice and cozy guest house with the wonderful view were just the beginning. The almost empty streets in winter made me fall in love with the place and I have been to that region for 4 times in next 2.5 years - and everytime it had been a different experience. It was also my first foray into Sikkim and more importantly the high mountain country of North Sikkim. Staying in the small village called Lachung, the valley at Yumthang and the white amphitheatre and the last milestone at Donkiala. It was not just wonderful sights but also some interesting people that made the trip memorable - the caretaker of the guest house at Darjeeling, Mr Banerjee - the travel agent in Siliguri, the beautiful girl at the shop in Rangpo, Tipu Basak in Gangtok. That trip will also be memorable for certain hilarious incidents - Tushar's phone conversation with P, Bando's telephonic romance under the blanket, that morning on Tiger Hill and the coffee, Gangamaya park, the flat tyre at Rangpo and the girl at the shop, the evening by the Lachung river celebrating Bando's birthday and most importantly Chick's iconic comment - "Ekei ki mod bole?" and Bando's daring 100ml shot of Old Monk!!! (the effects were immediately apparent)
Since then I have been consumed by an almost irresistible urge to travel and in the last 2 years and 4 months, I have a travelled some 48,000 miles - twice the equatorial circumference of earth! That is almost unbelievable considering the fact that before that period in almost 20 years of my life I have never been beyond 1200 miles of my hometown - Kolkata.
These years have brought about a plethora of new experience for me and has completely transformed my life - in terms of my attitude towards life, my outlook, my eating and drinking habits, my hobbies. Every place I have been to, every person I have met has left an impact on me. It has also been amazing in terms of the range of experience I have been through - from sheer despair to the wonderful feeling of being on top of the world, from the crowded streets of Varansi to the vast wilderness to the Tibetan plateau, from talking to a simple farmer on a train to a banquet dinner with a Nobel laureate, from a terribly cold sleepless night in remote mountains to a five star experience, from terrible loneliness to the almost heavenly warmth of togetherness, from frozen yak meat at a shepard's shack to vintage champagne 40,000 ft in the sky, from the windswept plains of North Sikkim to Grand Gallery in Louvre, from the small monastery in a remote Himalayan village to the wonders of the Vatican Museum and the St Peters, from preparing for a presentation on a night train to the wonderful and relaxed view of the Austrian Alps from a train to Rome, from traveling on top of a rickety bus to flying over the Khyber Pass in business class, from the dieting spree at Kgp to the 4 days of drinking beer instead of water in Berlin, from sleeping for 14 hours to going without sleep for 5 days, from the
simple dal-roti in Billoo's to eating live octopus!
These years have been nothing short of momentous and has vastly increased my 'comfort range' in terms of food, living conditions, working style, social circle, climatic conditions and my ability to adapt. Someone once asked me that if I were allowed to go back in time and change something, what would I do. In my opinion, I won't do anything with these 3 years. I have enjoyed the triumph as much as I have learned from the tragedy. I sometimes regret the hard decisions that I have had to make at the crossroads of life but I guess that's the purpose of life - making a choice between two things equally dear to you. As someone once said that only unfulfilled love is true love - the regret of not being able to decide otherwise at the crossroads is the reality of life.
There are certain phases of life that seem to pass by too quickly. Looking back we wonder how have we come so far without ever realizing it. I have no regrets with what happened - just satisfaction. Satisfaction at the fact that I succeeded at the times that I had to, satisfaction at the fact that I failed at times that made me sometimes terribly sad but made me make the choices that I made. I don't know what future has in store for me but these 3 years of life - a phase of life that I call the exponential phase, will always be special for me. In the years to come I may sink to the deepest abyss or rise to the highest summit - but whatever it may turn out to be, I'll always be happy about what happened in these 3 years. "The Universe has a way of cause-correcting" - for the past 3 years I have realised that it could not have been more true!