BILLA : Friend, Philanthropist and a Phenomenon!
Continuing with the Goecha La trek ... day 4 was very special indeed but I thought that before I move on to the story of that day, its better to write something about BILLA ... yes in capitals ... because this "British" gentleman, proved critics wrong and completed his first trek in style. Though there were some small incidents in between, his overall performance was impressive. Lets start from the beginning. It all started with a dinner at Park, when Bishu and I were discussing about the trek. Suddenly, Billa expressed his desire to join the team. We were really surprised! How on earth can Billa stay away from the worldly comforts, good food, to go on a trek which promised to be quite a challenge. But all the descriptions of hardship failed to deter Billa. True to the stubbornness of his colonial (virtual) ancestors, he decided to go on. So with Her Majesty's blessings and good wishes, we embarked on the planning phase of the mission. Though he didn't play a significant part in that phase mostly because of his inexperience, his last additions of warm clothing and binoculars, which arrived from the other side of the English Channel, considerably boosted our morale! :P
Though I hate to discuss about someone's personal life but a particular Saturday is worth mentioning. Bishu and I had planned to do the common shopping 2 weekends prior to our departure but that weekend Billa failed to make it to Kolkata owing to some mysterious ailment. So he was forced to do his part of the shopping the next Saturday. Unfortunately, both Bishu and I were out of town for TOEFL, so I was pretty worried as to how Billa will manage to get all the stuff in the pre puja confusion of Kolkata. Luckily a particular woman friend of Billa (whom he had met on train to Hyderabad and ... well ... the rest is history!!!) came to his rescue. When I called him after my exams, to my immense relief, he was having lunch after completing his shopping. It is worth mentioning that, Billa had taken time of his project by citing stomach ache as the cause of his absence to his guide, in order to spend some quality time with his friend. His guide who was concerned about his well being, had apparently called him some days later, only to learn that he had "taken the first flight home after his stomach ache had become unbearable!"
Anyway, on the day of our departure, Billa came down from Kgp with Bishu and we got settled in our places in the train. Just after the train left Howrah, Billa talked to his mom and conveyed to her the news that we were rolling. The train ride was uneventful and the next day we reached NJP amidst rain and clouds. But even this grim weather failed to dampen his spirit and we reached the guest house to have some breakfast and repack our stuff before setting out for Yuskam. Billa had forgotten to buy a woolen cap and sunglasses, so we decided to get it from Siliguri. We advised Billa to "bargain hard" when buying from a roadside shop and sent him to get his glasses.
Billa: Sunglasses kitne ka hai?
Shopkeeper: 70 rupees, sir.
B: hmmm ... woh wala dikhayiye ... hmm ... woh wala .... kaisa lag raha hai?
S: Ekdum bariya!
B: (turing back to us, we were sitting in a car) How am I looking man?
Us: Ekdum Rajnikant ... hurry up man, we're getting late.
B: Ok Ok ... (to the shopkeeper) ... kitne ka hai?
S: 70 rupaye.
B: hmm ... (thinks hard and puts his hands on his chin to add to the effect ... Billa ... bargain hard) ... 60 rupees mein milega?
S: 65 de dijiye ...
B: Ok ... (what the f*#$)
2 agents roll out of the car and shouted at the shopkeeper who finally agrees to give it for 35 bucks. Meanwhile Bishu and I were rolling with laughter inside the car. Billa comes back smiling.
At SNT, we got into a jeep for Jorethang. Bishu and I got the first row, while Billa got the last row along with 3 locals including a pretty girl. Though Billa was unhappy about the last row, the prospect of sitting next to the girl probably cheered him up. Unfortunately, the girl's father sat next to Billa and very soon, we found Billa sleeping through some impressive section of the road along the Teesta.
We reached Jorethang at noon and changed cars for Yuksam. Due to landslides the journey proved to be a long one ... and yes interesting too! Just beyond Jorethang, a lady boarded our car. She sat between me and Billa (I was not ready to give up the window) ... and man ... she was one hot chick. The bumpy road and many a "thought experiments" provided enough distractions ... so I stared outside at the spectacular scenery. Billa's eyes kept shuttling between the raging and foaming Rangit outside and those luscious lips. Bishu with his impish smile, seized the moment and whispered into Billa's ears "Dude, there's more beauty inside than outside". Unfortunately, in order to raise his voice above the sound of the engine and probably in excitement, the words that were supposed to be whisper became audible to all. All the heads turned towards him and his promptly turned towards the sheer rock face outside the window!
We reached Yuksam well past sunset amidst torrential rain. Billa's "acclimatization" process was going on pretty well. Next morning, Bishu and Billa set out before us. Tsering, me and the porters started after about half an hour. From the very first day, he walked pretty well through the rain. In the coming days, I found that I walked the slowest and reached the campsites at the end. Thus Billa proved all his critics (including me - I was really skeptical about how he would perform) wrong and showed great determination and adaptability (especially on day 5 when we had to negotiate an unending detour through some of the worst terrain imaginable and Billa did this with an ankle injury). But nevertheless he provided constant entertainment throughout the trek. One of the most important things of his rucksack was his "cosmetic box". Billa always made it a point to correct us, "Its NOT a cosmetic set, it is a toiletries set". But for cavemen like us it made no difference. It consisted of a plethora of creams and ointment for all parts of the body, and everyday Billa made it a point to use all of them religiously after the trek.
Billa adjusted remarkably to the food and the life in tent. Gone were the days when Billa yearned for Chicken tandoori, chocolates and scotch ... the new Billa was happy with instant noodles, rice and curry, cheese, jam and nuts, though towards the end when his patience was wearing thin, he did complain about omelettes (on day 5)
Billa: C'mon man, all I'm asking for is an omelette ... it no big deal
Bishu: uff ... its getting late and dark ... you can have as many as you like once we reach Tsoka
Billa: #$%@ (the stress and the effect of the injury was beginning to show)
Billa found it difficult to believe that we were finding it difficult to stay in a four man tent.
Billa: Don't you think its too small for 4 people? Is it really a 4 man tent?
Bishu: Ya, whats the problem? Its designed for cold climates.
I: You'll enjoy the lack of space when you come with the right person!
Billa: Well ... (raising one of his eyebrows) ... I'll never stay with the right person in a tent.
I: Don't you think its unique and different? You like being different ... you watch Boston Legal!
Billa: Ummm ... then also I think I'll carry a 4 man tent ... the extra space won't hurt ... and ... (raising his hands in emphasis) ... We'll have an army of porters carrying all our stuff ... we'll travel in royal style.
I: Won't you carry anything at all?
Billa: Well, some chocolates and a water bottle.
I: What about your cosmetic box ... will you give that to the porters to?
Billa rolls his eyes and looks towards Bishu ... c'mon its a toiletries set! Bishu is smiling as usual.
Towards the end of day 3, Billa injured his right ankle en route Thangsing. This greatly lowered his enthusiasm and he was reluctant to continue on day 4. I persuaded him to go telling him that he might never have this chance again in his life. After quite and effort he was ready to go and set out in his new "chacha" attire.Bilwa chacha from UP. Later looking at this pic, he regretfully commented, "Shit, it looks so rural and unpolished."
The high point of the trek was over by day 4 noon and from that time onwards it was a downhill journey - literally and figuratively. But Billa was happy at the prospects of going back to civilization, though I'm sure he did enjoy the trek, especially day 4. The detour on day 5 tested all of us. It was an unimaginably bad trail, through the forest at 12000ft. At times the trail disappeared and we found ourselves walking laterally on landslide which plunged into the river hundreds of meters below. We had run out of water and chocolate and with no place to rest, we were forced to keep walking continuously for 3 and a half hours. It was extremely frustrating though not particularly tiring but for Billa with his injured ankle, it was really difficult. I was really sorry for the dejected look on his face but we had to move on. There was no other option.
The trekkers lodge at Tsoka was nice and cosy. This raised our spirits after all the hardships of the past 4 days. We also talked to our fellow trekker ... a couple from Mumbai - Ramesh and Bharti. We heard that Bharti had injured herself on day 3 and were unable to reach Thangsing.
Billa: Oh, you OK now?
Bharti: Ya, I was never injured in the first place.
Billa: Really, that's good. Our guide told us that you fell while coming down and couldn't reach Thangsing.
Bharti: No, no , we were just too tired. And also the view from Dzongri top was great. The entire range had opened up. How far did you see?
Billa: We went until Samiti Lake, then the clouds rolled in. So you have been trekking for 9 years, I heard.
Bharti: Ya, now a days its difficult for both of us to get holidays at the same time. Last time, Ramesh had to go to Everest Base without me.
Billa: So ... where did you met each other for the first time?
Clearly, they were not comfortable discussing that but Billa kept on pestering. Finally to change the topic
Bharti: Where will you be going from Yuksam?
Billa: Darjeeling ... btw, have you been to Kalimpong? Its a wonderful place.
An then Billa starts drawing a vivid picture of Kalimpong. Ramesh and Bharti were listening intently and were pretty impressed from the description.
Ramesh : Wow, that sounds great. How many times have you been there?
Billa: Actually I haven't been there. You must read "Inheritance of Loss", its a fabulous book. It describes Kalimpong and blah blah blah ....
That night, we compelled Billa to have Chang (Tibetan Millet Beer). We don't know whether he liked it or not (more used to scotch) but after we were done, we were all pretty tipsy!
Once back in Yuksam, we shared a drink on the last evening with Tsering. We ordered the local HIT from Yuksam breweries (owned by Dani Denzongpa - whose mansion in Mumbai is named Dzongri La) but Billa true to his "tradition", ordered tea. Just after the waitress had left, he turned back and said "Excuse me, ... make that black tea, please". Bishu and I exchanged glances, smiled and nodded our heads. Next day we reached Jorethang and was waiting for our car to Darjeeling. The streets were littered with liquor shops.
Billa: Oh man, its hilarious ... they keep the ships closed on Amvasya, Purnima and Dry days. What's dry days?
I: What do you think? What's dry got to do with alcohol?
Billa: Ummm ... what can it be?
I: Why don't you ask the shopkeeper what is it all about?
Bishu: Go ahead, ask him and also get some stuff for the journey to Darjeeling. It'll take pretty long.
Billa: Hmm ... I think its a spelling mistake ... is it Fridays? See D and F are situated next to each other on the keyboard! But then why is Dry and day separate and Y and I are not next to each other... (keeps on thinking while we are about to burst!)
Once in Darjeeling, Billa was impressed by the colonial town. He greatly appreciated the ambiance, pastry and coffee at the Glenary's (we all did) and flirted with the lady at the counter. Later he lectured us on women psychology. It was great fun so we allowed him to go on.
The Shangri La impressed him even more and after a long time, sipping whiskey in wide rimmed glass, he continued to entertain us. He made it a point to tell the manager that the food was good but very oily, and came out smiling for being a "responsible citizen". He invested quite an amount on tea and made sure that he got the best (read most expensive) one after sniffing through a lot of them LIKE an expert.
Against the opinion of many, Billa turned out to be a great travel companion - humorous, adaptable and always eager to learn. I must admit that he also has the qualities of a successful trekker, hidden amongst his love for luxury and extravagance. A toast to Billa ... hic!

Day3: Dzongri - Thangsing, turn of the tide .... or is it?

After a warm dinner we went into our sleeping bags. I sincerely hoped that it would clear out the next morning and we would be able to get a good view from Dzongri top. For the last 4 days, I have had very little or no sleep at night, so this was a chance to regain my energy before the assault, the following night. It was very cold that night and at 4000m, visibility was very poor due to a thick cloud cover. I set the alarm for 4:30am and went off to sleep.
The sound of rain woke me up. It was raining like hell. The impact of the raindrops on the tent could be easily felt and for a moment, I thought that the tent was about to collapse. Luckily it didn't do so but the waterproof cover was giving away and drops of water started trickling in. It was 2:30am and I woke up Bisu and Billa. I quickly packed up my stuff and compelled them to do so. Just in case the tent collapses or water comes in ,we would leave the tent and seek shelter elsewhere. The cold, lack of space and the trickling water made movement difficult but still within a few minutes, we dressed up, packed our stuff and waited. I don't know how it was with others but I was tired to the point of breaking and then waiting for a calamity to occur made it unbearable. The rain finally stopped at around 5:30am. Those 3 hours can't be described - for the first time during the trek, I felt vulnerable and insecure. On top of that I fought hard not to fall asleep.
There was no point staying inside the tent, so I went out to assess the damage. It was very cold and the fatigue affected my balance and orientation. Visibility was very poor and the trail was muddy and slippery. The southern skies were clearing but Dzongri to was still in the clouds. After a glass of hot tea, I regained my energy and tempo. Taking my cam, I went for Dzongri top, hoping for a miracle. The trail though straight forward, was very exposed(along the ridge with steep falls on either side) and was rather soft and soggy. Within a very short time, I gained significant height and the camp site far below looked very small indeed. A piece of fresh blue sky could be seen towards south and a hill that resembled Machu Pichu. I continued my walk towards Dzongri top. The trail towards Rathong glacier and the camping ground of the Belgian group came into view. The bright yellow North Face domes stood out amongst the dull green and brown. I was at a col, almost half a way to the top, when it suddenly started snowing. The flakes were quite big and I could hear them hitting my jacket. I realised that it was no point continuing for the top. The miracle that I was hoping for would not materialize. So instead I surveyed the surroundings from this vantage point, then turned back and came down.
After a small breakfast, we set out. The route involved climbing a small pass first. Tsering was the first to reach the pass and signaled that the peak of Pandim was visible. I was walking at my usual pace. I think one of the main reason behind not suffering from altitude sickness and injury
, was the slow pace that I was walking. I never allowed myself to go out of breath. But Tsering's signal had a dramatic effect. It fired an adrenaline shot and I completely lost control of myself. With a heavy sack on my back, I sprinted over the loose, unconsolidated trail. Luckily I reached the top without incident. The snowfields of Pandim were glistening. The peak was just visible while Tenzing Khang was mostly hidden in clouds. The clouds rolled in within 15 minutes blocking all the view. Though very short, this view charged us up and in the soft morning sun, we continued forward. The trail was very beautiful - rolling alpine meadows, dwarf rhododendron bushes, wildflowers, small streams and Thangsing far away. I clicked many a wildflowers and the general scenery. For about an hour, we walked on almost level ground and then suddenly without warning, the trail plunged. This is the STEEPEST descent I have ever seen. At places the gradient was close to vertical. The problem was compounded by various streams flowing down the slope. Once again, the walking stick and Weinbrenner proved their mettle. Without the stick, I would have surely fallen down. It provided indispensable support and protection. The descent took good part of an hour, after which we reached the trekkers hut at Kokchurong by the river. It was situated within the rhododendron forest, with the river flowing just next to it. The river crossing had 3 log bridges but were pretty easy and secure, we had no problem.
After sometime the trail once again entered the forest. My stock of chocolates had run out and the energy of the meager breakfast was already spent. The lack of sleep might also be a reason, but I was feeling terribly tired. Every step took a lot of effort and I stopped after every few steps to take a break. The last part involved crossing a sidestream. Tsering and others had moved forward and I was dragging myself at the end, using a photo break as a break. Tsering waited for me at the river for sometime, then came back to look for me. He asked me whether I was feeling ok and offered to carry my sack for the remaining distance (about 700m over a boulder field and scrubs). He offered help with a good intention but the empty stomach and the fatigue made it sound like an insult! Pity was the last fu**** thing I wanted. I didn't answer his question and walked the remaining distance without a break.
Subba was cooking lunch and handed me a glass of warm tea as soon as I arrived. The tea freshened me up and I went searching for a suitable campsite and helped Tsering and Naoraj, set up the tent. Within this time lunch(noodle soup and cheese) was ready and standing by the kitchen(a small shack with half the roof missing) I enjoyed the warm soup. I was busy talking to Tsering and Subba regarding next days plan. I sat on a rock outside facing the door of the kitchen and placed my gloves on another rock behind me. After finishing the soup, I turned back to fetch my gloves when suddenly high above the clouds, Pandim showed her face. Its sheer size kept me motionless for a long time. After the pass above Dzongri, we had not seen Pandim. It grew in size with every step that we took but we couldn't see it. The crevasses and the details of the snowfield were clearly visible.
Later, I sat by the stream that flowed down from the glaciers of Tenzing Khang and joined Prek Chu. Pandim continued to play hide and seek, while the southern skies started clearing gradually. An interesting thing about the campsite was that, it was difficult to believe that we were in India. Of the 7 groups that camped there, we were the only Indian group. The evening was uneventful and after a quick dinner we went to sleep early. Next day was the D Day. If every thing turned out well, then we would start at 2:30 in the morning for Geocha La. The estimated time to reach the pass is about 5 hours. Every thing depends on the weather which still showed no chances of improvement. But hope is a wonderful thing. It keeps you interested and active even in the most depressing of situations. Though it was highly unlikely, in my heart I knew that the clouds will part, no matter what. Another big problem was that none of us were carrying headlamps, so we'd have to rely on the light from Tsering's lamp over the boulder field and the terminal moraine that lies ahead of us. Though it was very dangerous to do so, I was ready to take this chance. Setting my alarm for 2am, I went to sleep with a few silent prayers and the hope of standing over the Talung glacier, gazing at the east face. So far during the trip, we haven't seen K(Kanchenjunga) even for once. It was almost a year since I had seen her (the last time being the closing views from Phalut top). That night I dreamt of the view where "the awe inspiring east face rising high above the Talung glacier covers the entire horizon"
A few pics from day 3:The way to Dzongri top. The top of a trekker's hut is visible on the left.The campsite at Dzongri. Our tent is the green one closet to the large hut on its right.
First view of Pandim from the pass just beyond Dzongri.
Wild flowers in high altitude meadow.
Prek Chu at Kokchurong ... view from one of the log bridges.
Wildflowers in the forest on the other side of the river.Looking back from Thangsing at the way we came. Dzongri is visible at a distance.
The campsite at Thangsing.
The campsite at Thangsing - looking towards the head of the valley.
This stream drains the glaciers on Tenzing Khang. I spent a considerable part of the aftrenoon beside this stream - daydreaming!

Coming next - Day4 .... did we make it?, Sunday lunch at 14000ft, blue sheep, the shortcut, back to civilization and much more ...... pitchhure abhi baki hai dost :-)!!!

Day2: Bakhim - Dzongri, stretching the limits

Next morning, we made a relatively early start. Tsering (our guide), advised us to stick together and not to take short cuts. Apparently, a German trekker had disappeared from this part 3 years back and no trace of his body was ever found. It was wet and windy, but the humidity and steep slopes ran many a streams down my body. We reached Tsoka pretty quickly and after a cup of tea and a few chocolates bars, we moved on. The vegetation was becoming coniferous and there was extensive growth of moss and lichen. The muddy trail was slightly improved by laying down planks of wood, that made it look like railway tracks. After sometime it started drizzling and the trail was cloaked in clouds. Though the scenery was charming in itself, my wets clothes and dampened spirit was desperately wanting to see some sun. For most parts I was walking alone and taking an occasional snap and snack :-) At Phedang we had our lunch consisting of noodle soup, cheese, peanuts and chocolate bars. As we were having lunch, we saw support staff of a Belgian group, set up tables and elaborate cooking arrangements for the team of 19. The leader of the team was a old gentleman, who spoke impeccable Hindi.
Beyond Phedang, the altitude started showing its effect. On top of that it was raining heavily. The entire trail was transformed into a stream coming down the mountains. The exposed areas were especially dangerous while the flat grounds had almost ankle deep mud. Luckily, my boots were waterproof and the high ankle guard, kept my feet dry but rain and sweat didn't spare my clothes. I was absolutely drenched, out of breath and the sack which weighed close to nothing at the start of the trek, now seemed to be filled with lead. The back support of my sack was badly designed and gave me a lot of trouble. The climb seemed to be unending and every turn revealed another upward slope ahead. I was becoming increasingly frustrated. But like all bad things, the gradient eased out after Deorali (a double pass at an altitude of over 4000m, from where Dzongri is a easy walk away). Tsering was waiting for me on the ridge and after washing the mud off my boots at a stream, I went with him to the campsite. The tent was pitched and we were served warm tea. I was feeling terribly hungry and though I had run out of my initial stock of chocolates, I felt an immensely relieved. Altitude won't be a problem from now on. This realization and the tea considerably uplifted my spirits and I went in search for some good pics. That night after having dinner at 8, we chatted for sometime, spread out our sleeping bags and went in. This was our first day in tent and it took us sometime to get used to the space crunch. It was quite amazing to listen to Billa's experience and opinions about the trek so far and his musings on a particular person he is very fond of :-) !
The pics below captures snapshots of the day:Staff of the Belgian group preparing lunch for them at Phedang.
From Bakhim to Tsoka.
Bridge to the Tsoka monastery. Tsoka is a Tibetan refugee village and the last settlement on the route.The village of Tsoka from the top. The green patch grows cabbage and spinach.
The railway track. Wood planks laid down to prevent the trail from being muddy.
Where there is no railway track, the mud reigns supreme and shoes get dirty and wet.

Deorali top. Dzongri lies beyond the next ridge. From this point onwards the gradient eases out.
Finally, made it :-). Our tent in Dzongri with the trekkers hut in the background.

A FAILED QUEST
Lets start with the facts first.
Target: Goecha La - a 4950m pass over the Talung glacier in Sikkim facing the Eastern face of Kanchenjunga.
Group: Bishu (Biswajeet Guha), Billa (Billa Nishanth) and me. Tsering Sherpa was our guide while Subba and Naoraj were the porters.
Starting date: 9th October from Kolkata.
Duration: 9 days
Starting point: Yuksam
Approach route: Kolkata - Siliguri - Jorethang - Yuksam (involved considerable detour, landslides, torrential rain and passing 'through' a waterfall!)

Day1: Yuksam - Bakhim, warming up our hamstrings.
The depression over Bay of Bengal had hit the Sikkim Himalayas head on. The result was not just torrential rain but also extensive landslide. The day we reached Yuksam (rather night is more appropriate) Tsering was already waiting for us. The evening was spent discussing about the options, rations and porters. Next morning, it cleared out a bit - enough for my (and others) spirits to soar and after the spending an hour and a half shopping for food supplies and getting necessary permits, we were off.
The trail starts just behind the Eco-tourism office. The most striking feature of the trail is that its difficult to get lost. Whenever in doubt, just follow the yak shit thats found all over the trail. Since the trail is well marked these natural markers tend to be of more trouble than help. I was especially careful with my brand new hiking boots! The first part is through dense forest with side streams crossing the trail every now and then. The recent rain has increased their volume greatly, providing good photo opportunities at the cost of the ease of walking. It was extremely humid and very soon my favourite 'Vodka' t-shirt was totally drenched. I was walking at a slow pace, occasionally stopping for a yak train to pass by and using the opportunity to grab some rest. Though the scenery was very beautiful, I hardly took any photos. I knew that if weather cleared out, more was to come. And if it didn't clear then the return journey is always there.
The walk was more or less uneventful. The regular 10 steps, one deep breath pattern suits me well and I stick to it when there is no hurry. The plan was to reach Tsoka the first evening and then proceed to Dzongri the next day. Since we were running short of time, this was a hard decision that we had to take. This meant an altitude gain of nearly 2.3km in 2 days, which is considered to be well above the acceptable rate of height gain. Also the trail being uneven and made worse by the recent rain, it sounded overambitious but we had no choice. On that day there were 2 major river crossings over 2 substantial bridges - the first was Kalikhola and the next was Prek Chu. The trail being very rocky and uneven, takes its toll on the feet, especially while descending the steep slippery parts. The constant rise and fall of the gradient along with the rain made the first day especially frustrating. The bridge on Prek Chu is preceded by a steep descent and followed by a very steep, almost back breaking ascent to Bakhim. By the time we reached Bakhim, it was 4pm (we started pretty late at around 9:45am) and we were at the end of our strength. There was a serious chance of sustaining leg injury if we didn't stop there for that day. But it would also mean that our target of reaching Dzongri on day 2 would become more difficult now. Nonetheless, we decided to stop there for the day. A small injury at such a place is enough to jeopardize the whole plan, so we decided to play safe and stop at Bakhim. Luckily there was a forest rest house and we didn't have to pitch tents in the rain. By the light of a single candle, we changed over to dry clothes, had our dinner, rearranged our stuff, rubbed pain balm and went into the sleeping bags.
Overall, it was a very boring and tiring day. The tempo that we had at the start of our journey was beginning to ebb. The sleeping bag was not very comfortable and I fell into an uneasy dreamless sleep.
Below are a few picks from day 0(journey to Yuksam) and 1.From the jeep that we were traveling in - Mahananda Wildlife sanctuary, Siliguri. Leaving the plains and heading for the mountains.
The river Rangit in spate. The recent rains turned the gentle emerald green river into a muddy torrent.
The village of Yuksam, from the balcony of the lodge where we were staying.
Kalikhola - the first major river crossing over a substantial bridge. The trail can be seen on the left.One of the side streams that cut the trail.
The bridge over Prek Chu, about 2.5km before Bakhim. The trail rises from the left.
At Bakhim. The clouds show a gap in the south. The village of Yuksam is on the flat region just next to my right shoulder, partly covered in clouds.