Day3: Dzongri - Thangsing, turn of the tide .... or is it?

After a warm dinner we went into our sleeping bags. I sincerely hoped that it would clear out the next morning and we would be able to get a good view from Dzongri top. For the last 4 days, I have had very little or no sleep at night, so this was a chance to regain my energy before the assault, the following night. It was very cold that night and at 4000m, visibility was very poor due to a thick cloud cover. I set the alarm for 4:30am and went off to sleep.
The sound of rain woke me up. It was raining like hell. The impact of the raindrops on the tent could be easily felt and for a moment, I thought that the tent was about to collapse. Luckily it didn't do so but the waterproof cover was giving away and drops of water started trickling in. It was 2:30am and I woke up Bisu and Billa. I quickly packed up my stuff and compelled them to do so. Just in case the tent collapses or water comes in ,we would leave the tent and seek shelter elsewhere. The cold, lack of space and the trickling water made movement difficult but still within a few minutes, we dressed up, packed our stuff and waited. I don't know how it was with others but I was tired to the point of breaking and then waiting for a calamity to occur made it unbearable. The rain finally stopped at around 5:30am. Those 3 hours can't be described - for the first time during the trek, I felt vulnerable and insecure. On top of that I fought hard not to fall asleep.
There was no point staying inside the tent, so I went out to assess the damage. It was very cold and the fatigue affected my balance and orientation. Visibility was very poor and the trail was muddy and slippery. The southern skies were clearing but Dzongri to was still in the clouds. After a glass of hot tea, I regained my energy and tempo. Taking my cam, I went for Dzongri top, hoping for a miracle. The trail though straight forward, was very exposed(along the ridge with steep falls on either side) and was rather soft and soggy. Within a very short time, I gained significant height and the camp site far below looked very small indeed. A piece of fresh blue sky could be seen towards south and a hill that resembled Machu Pichu. I continued my walk towards Dzongri top. The trail towards Rathong glacier and the camping ground of the Belgian group came into view. The bright yellow North Face domes stood out amongst the dull green and brown. I was at a col, almost half a way to the top, when it suddenly started snowing. The flakes were quite big and I could hear them hitting my jacket. I realised that it was no point continuing for the top. The miracle that I was hoping for would not materialize. So instead I surveyed the surroundings from this vantage point, then turned back and came down.
After a small breakfast, we set out. The route involved climbing a small pass first. Tsering was the first to reach the pass and signaled that the peak of Pandim was visible. I was walking at my usual pace. I think one of the main reason behind not suffering from altitude sickness and injury
, was the slow pace that I was walking. I never allowed myself to go out of breath. But Tsering's signal had a dramatic effect. It fired an adrenaline shot and I completely lost control of myself. With a heavy sack on my back, I sprinted over the loose, unconsolidated trail. Luckily I reached the top without incident. The snowfields of Pandim were glistening. The peak was just visible while Tenzing Khang was mostly hidden in clouds. The clouds rolled in within 15 minutes blocking all the view. Though very short, this view charged us up and in the soft morning sun, we continued forward. The trail was very beautiful - rolling alpine meadows, dwarf rhododendron bushes, wildflowers, small streams and Thangsing far away. I clicked many a wildflowers and the general scenery. For about an hour, we walked on almost level ground and then suddenly without warning, the trail plunged. This is the STEEPEST descent I have ever seen. At places the gradient was close to vertical. The problem was compounded by various streams flowing down the slope. Once again, the walking stick and Weinbrenner proved their mettle. Without the stick, I would have surely fallen down. It provided indispensable support and protection. The descent took good part of an hour, after which we reached the trekkers hut at Kokchurong by the river. It was situated within the rhododendron forest, with the river flowing just next to it. The river crossing had 3 log bridges but were pretty easy and secure, we had no problem.
After sometime the trail once again entered the forest. My stock of chocolates had run out and the energy of the meager breakfast was already spent. The lack of sleep might also be a reason, but I was feeling terribly tired. Every step took a lot of effort and I stopped after every few steps to take a break. The last part involved crossing a sidestream. Tsering and others had moved forward and I was dragging myself at the end, using a photo break as a break. Tsering waited for me at the river for sometime, then came back to look for me. He asked me whether I was feeling ok and offered to carry my sack for the remaining distance (about 700m over a boulder field and scrubs). He offered help with a good intention but the empty stomach and the fatigue made it sound like an insult! Pity was the last fu**** thing I wanted. I didn't answer his question and walked the remaining distance without a break.
Subba was cooking lunch and handed me a glass of warm tea as soon as I arrived. The tea freshened me up and I went searching for a suitable campsite and helped Tsering and Naoraj, set up the tent. Within this time lunch(noodle soup and cheese) was ready and standing by the kitchen(a small shack with half the roof missing) I enjoyed the warm soup. I was busy talking to Tsering and Subba regarding next days plan. I sat on a rock outside facing the door of the kitchen and placed my gloves on another rock behind me. After finishing the soup, I turned back to fetch my gloves when suddenly high above the clouds, Pandim showed her face. Its sheer size kept me motionless for a long time. After the pass above Dzongri, we had not seen Pandim. It grew in size with every step that we took but we couldn't see it. The crevasses and the details of the snowfield were clearly visible.
Later, I sat by the stream that flowed down from the glaciers of Tenzing Khang and joined Prek Chu. Pandim continued to play hide and seek, while the southern skies started clearing gradually. An interesting thing about the campsite was that, it was difficult to believe that we were in India. Of the 7 groups that camped there, we were the only Indian group. The evening was uneventful and after a quick dinner we went to sleep early. Next day was the D Day. If every thing turned out well, then we would start at 2:30 in the morning for Geocha La. The estimated time to reach the pass is about 5 hours. Every thing depends on the weather which still showed no chances of improvement. But hope is a wonderful thing. It keeps you interested and active even in the most depressing of situations. Though it was highly unlikely, in my heart I knew that the clouds will part, no matter what. Another big problem was that none of us were carrying headlamps, so we'd have to rely on the light from Tsering's lamp over the boulder field and the terminal moraine that lies ahead of us. Though it was very dangerous to do so, I was ready to take this chance. Setting my alarm for 2am, I went to sleep with a few silent prayers and the hope of standing over the Talung glacier, gazing at the east face. So far during the trip, we haven't seen K(Kanchenjunga) even for once. It was almost a year since I had seen her (the last time being the closing views from Phalut top). That night I dreamt of the view where "the awe inspiring east face rising high above the Talung glacier covers the entire horizon"
A few pics from day 3:The way to Dzongri top. The top of a trekker's hut is visible on the left.The campsite at Dzongri. Our tent is the green one closet to the large hut on its right.
First view of Pandim from the pass just beyond Dzongri.
Wild flowers in high altitude meadow.
Prek Chu at Kokchurong ... view from one of the log bridges.
Wildflowers in the forest on the other side of the river.Looking back from Thangsing at the way we came. Dzongri is visible at a distance.
The campsite at Thangsing.
The campsite at Thangsing - looking towards the head of the valley.
This stream drains the glaciers on Tenzing Khang. I spent a considerable part of the aftrenoon beside this stream - daydreaming!

Coming next - Day4 .... did we make it?, Sunday lunch at 14000ft, blue sheep, the shortcut, back to civilization and much more ...... pitchhure abhi baki hai dost :-)!!!