Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Day2: Bakhim - Dzongri, stretching the limits

Next morning, we made a relatively early start. Tsering (our guide), advised us to stick together and not to take short cuts. Apparently, a German trekker had disappeared from this part 3 years back and no trace of his body was ever found. It was wet and windy, but the humidity and steep slopes ran many a streams down my body. We reached Tsoka pretty quickly and after a cup of tea and a few chocolates bars, we moved on. The vegetation was becoming coniferous and there was extensive growth of moss and lichen. The muddy trail was slightly improved by laying down planks of wood, that made it look like railway tracks. After sometime it started drizzling and the trail was cloaked in clouds. Though the scenery was charming in itself, my wets clothes and dampened spirit was desperately wanting to see some sun. For most parts I was walking alone and taking an occasional snap and snack :-) At Phedang we had our lunch consisting of noodle soup, cheese, peanuts and chocolate bars. As we were having lunch, we saw support staff of a Belgian group, set up tables and elaborate cooking arrangements for the team of 19. The leader of the team was a old gentleman, who spoke impeccable Hindi.
Beyond Phedang, the altitude started showing its effect. On top of that it was raining heavily. The entire trail was transformed into a stream coming down the mountains. The exposed areas were especially dangerous while the flat grounds had almost ankle deep mud. Luckily, my boots were waterproof and the high ankle guard, kept my feet dry but rain and sweat didn't spare my clothes. I was absolutely drenched, out of breath and the sack which weighed close to nothing at the start of the trek, now seemed to be filled with lead. The back support of my sack was badly designed and gave me a lot of trouble. The climb seemed to be unending and every turn revealed another upward slope ahead. I was becoming increasingly frustrated. But like all bad things, the gradient eased out after Deorali (a double pass at an altitude of over 4000m, from where Dzongri is a easy walk away). Tsering was waiting for me on the ridge and after washing the mud off my boots at a stream, I went with him to the campsite. The tent was pitched and we were served warm tea. I was feeling terribly hungry and though I had run out of my initial stock of chocolates, I felt an immensely relieved. Altitude won't be a problem from now on. This realization and the tea considerably uplifted my spirits and I went in search for some good pics. That night after having dinner at 8, we chatted for sometime, spread out our sleeping bags and went in. This was our first day in tent and it took us sometime to get used to the space crunch. It was quite amazing to listen to Billa's experience and opinions about the trek so far and his musings on a particular person he is very fond of :-) !
The pics below captures snapshots of the day:Staff of the Belgian group preparing lunch for them at Phedang.
From Bakhim to Tsoka.
Bridge to the Tsoka monastery. Tsoka is a Tibetan refugee village and the last settlement on the route.The village of Tsoka from the top. The green patch grows cabbage and spinach.
The railway track. Wood planks laid down to prevent the trail from being muddy.
Where there is no railway track, the mud reigns supreme and shoes get dirty and wet.

Deorali top. Dzongri lies beyond the next ridge. From this point onwards the gradient eases out.
Finally, made it :-). Our tent in Dzongri with the trekkers hut in the background.

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